Demystifying acids in your skincare routine: the best choices for your skin.
There are a lot of preconceptions and misconceptions when it comes to acids in skincare. Acids suggest skin irritation and redness, but that is rarely true. Acids play an important part both in the healthy functioning of our bodies and in the effectiveness of many skincare products. The following is a look at of some of the most popular acids used in skin care.
Vitamin C.
Why you need it in your skin care routine?
When it comes to our skin, vitamin C is a powerhouse. It is a powerful antioxidant, that reduces hyperpigmentation and stimulates collagen and elastin to fight signs of aging. It also protects the skin from UV damage, free radicals and has anti inflammatory properties. Try it in: Luzern Serum Absolut V15, Mary Cohr Vital-Lift Cream, Payot My Payot New Glow or Suprème Jeunesse Cou & Decolleté.
Fun fact: vitamin C is essential to the proper functioning of our bodies but it is neither produced nor retained for more than 24 hours by the body when ingested. While a vitamin C deficiency is rare these days - a vitamin C deficiency was a leading cause of death for early explorers in the new world!
Who is it good for: all skin types - sensitive skins may need an adaptation period.
Hyaluronic Acid
Why you need it in your skin care routine?
It appears hyaluronic acid is everywhere - and with good reason. Hyaluronic acid is, in fact, a sugar that is naturally produced by our bodies. Its primary function is to bind to water molecules and retain water in our skin. However, the amount of naturally occurring hyaluronic acid in our skin decreases as we age. Used in skincare, hyaluronic acid holds water on the skin and keeps skin deeply hydrated and plumped; it also improves elasticity and helps skin heal. Try it in: Luzern Serum Absolut Rehydrate, Mary Cohr Hydrosmose Serum or Payot Hydra 24+ Concentré D’Eau.
Fun fact: the naturally occurring HA in our bodies can hold 1000x its weight in water.
Who it is good for: all skin types.
Vitamin A (Retinol)
Why you need it in your skin care routine?
Vitamin A, and specifically its derivative retinol, is the veritable king of acids in skin care; it is one of the most powerful and effective skin care ingredients available on the market. Retinol exfoliates, improves skin texture by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, stimulates collagen production, boosts hydration, diminishes hyperpigmentation, and treats acne all at once. Try it in: Luzern La Nuit Retinol Luxe or La Nuit Neck and Decolleté.
Fun fact: like many other acids, retinol is naturally produced by our bodies.
Who it is good for: all skin types - though an adaptation period may be necessary.
Glycolic Acid
Why you need it in your skin care routine?
That tingle you feel when you apply certain products? It’s probably glycolic acid. Glycolic acid is perhaps the best known and most widely used of all alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). It is a popular ingredient in chemical peels and exfoliants. Thanks to its small molecular size it is easily absorbed by the skin and it is highly soluble in water. Glycolic acid softens, hydrates, and brightens skin. It also stimulates cell turnover and collagen production to diminish signs of aging and sloughs off dead skin cells to reduce acne breakouts and even skin tone. Try it in: Mary Cohr Microbiotic, Payot Blue Techni Liss Week-End, My Payot Peeling Eclat, Pâte Grise Nuit or AbsoluPeel surface chemical peel (available exclusively through your skincare professional).
Fun fact: glycolic is derived from the sugar cane plant or other plants containing high sugar content such as beets or grapes.
Who is it good for: all skin types - though sensitive skins may experience mild redness at first.
Salicylic Acid
Why you need it in your skin care routine?
Chances are you’ve been using salicylic acid since your teens! Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that dissolves dead skin cells and exfoliates the skin to gradually help clear uncomplicated acne. It is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and mildly antibiotic. Try it in: Luzern Serum Absolut Recovery, Mary Cohr Purifying Corrective Serum or Payot Pâte Grise Anti-Imperfections Serum.
Fun fact: salicine, which is naturally occurring in willow bark, has similar properties to salicylic acid. The use of willow bark as a medicinal ingredient dates to ancient times.
Who is it good for: congested, blemish prone skin.
Amino Acids (Omega Acids)
Why you need it in your skin care routine?
Sure, you take an omega fatty acids supplement for your physical and mental health, but those same omegas are also a building block for the surface layers of your skin. Applied topically, they hydrate, protect against external environmental aggressors, strengthen the surface of the skin, calm irritated skin and contain antioxidants which visibly reduce signs of aging. Try it in: Luzern La Nuit Hydra Enzyme Masque, Mary Cohr Enriched New Youth Body Care or Exquisite Shower Gel.
Fun fact: there are over 500 types of naturally occurring amino acids.
Who is it good for: all skin types.
“When you skin needs more!”
While at home products containing acids can give you visible results, sometimes your skin needs the help of a professional. AbsoluPeel is a professional - only treatment that provides the best that acids have to offer. Comprised of a powerful combination glycolic and kojic acids and other active ingredients, AbsoluPeel is a superficial peel performed by a trained skincare professional.
In under thirty minutes and with no down time, this professional peel provides visible, long lasting results in just a few sessions. It encourages cell turnover, boosts the production of collagen and elastin, sloughs off dead skin cells, reduces acne and visible signs of aging and fades dark spots and hyperpigmentation to reveal, smoother, clearer, luminous, and younger-looking skin.
What to expect: Mild to moderate tingling during application only and mild to moderate redness for a few hours following treatment are normal. A sunscreen is highly recommended after treatment. 4
*Please consult with your skin care professional which products are right for you.